Schumann’s Swiss Journey in 1829

4th September 1829 – the Grimsel [Pass]

Handeck Waterfall: watercolour by William Turner, 1810
1. Handeck Waterfall: watercolour by William Turner, 1810

[Friday, 4th September – terrible headache and wonderful weather – happy imagination and the listening Jesuits – leaving – wonderful mountain valleys – in the courtyard – attempted kisses and the innocent mountain girl – in the loft – the snowy mountains, looking over their shoulders – waterfalls – gorges – Guttannen and the most beautiful Swiss girl – von Graffenried and his kisses – terrible headache – talking to Hermann and Kersten – climbing – the riding Allehut – the most beautiful waterfall in Switzerland of the [River] Aare, and the Handeck [Waterfall] (1), like two embracing youths – chalet and red wine – climbing between and on granite blocks – the frothing [River] Aare

Grimsel Hospice: Today immersed in the artificial Lake Grimsel and replaced by a new construction
2. Grimsel Hospice: Today immersed in the artificial Lake Grimsel and replaced by a new construction

– chaos of mountain peaks and the atheist area (3) – the sky blue snowy mountain – into a dead valley without trees, with a chalet and a waterfall on top of it – wilder and wilder – bold arch bridges (4) – granite slabs – the moon behind the mountains and a bright sky – silvered glaciers – arriving at the Grimsel Hospice (2) – the milking of the goats – annoying bugs – Ludwig the Fox from Heidelberg – good meal 7,000 feet above sea level and the smiling waitress – noble sleep with six persons per room – whistling winds and biting fleas – terrible stench

Granite slabs at the Grimsel Pass (atheist area)
3. Granite slabs at the Grimsel Pass (atheist area)
The “Roman” arch bridge
4. The “Roman” arch bridge

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